Whatβs not to love about an Hermes bag?
If youβre trulyΒ looking for an investment, a Birkin is the way to go. But as one would expect, the Kelly bag is the more versatile investment option. In fact,Β demand for the Kelly bagΒ is increasing by the minute, almost beating the Birkin bag. Even then youβre left with so many options. Sizes, styles, colors, and textiles. Where do you even begin?
Shopping for anything Hermes can feel like a daunting task at times. But youβve come to the right place. Weβre taking a closer look at the two types of Kelly bags, one of the oldest and most iconic styles ever to be produced fromΒ Hermes.
The Birth & Evolution of the Kelly Bag
Hermes, founded by Thierry Hermes, began as a saddle workshop back in 1837. From there, his quality horseriding pieces became well-known everywhere. He began to make leather bags to carry accessories for the riders and specialized bags to carry food for the horses. In came the pieces that we now know today as the PicotinΒ and theΒ EvelyneΒ to name a few.
(Side note: you can score most of theseΒ investment pieces under $5k).
Also noteworthy, the Trim bag, and of course, the Kelly. The design of the Kelly bag borrows elements from Hermes’ firstborn the HAC, which is otherwise known as ‘Haut a courroies’ and designed to perfectly fit and carry a saddle!Β
Then in 1928, the bag evolved into a business bag, perfect for carrying important paperwork. Particularly loved by businessmen, politicians, and writers (think JFK and Winston Churchill). It was referred to as the Sac a depeches β a temporary name for this iconic work bag.
Then came the day that would truly make Hermes history. When Grace Kelly Princess of Monaco carried her Hermes bag to shield herself from the paparazzi, everything changed. It was around the time she was filming Hitchcockβs βTo Catch AΒ Thiefβ and this bag was a gift to her that she truly cherished. As soon as that moment was photographed and published in magazines, the bag quickly gained traction around the world and officially became known as the Kelly bag. Today, the Kelly bag is one of the worldβs most iconic bags you can buy.
Different Kelly Sizes & Styles

The Kelly comes in the following sizes from biggest to smallest:Β 35,Β 32,Β 28Β (the most popular size),Β 25, andΒ 20Β (also known as the mini, and right now this is the trendiest). These numbers refer to the base measurement of the bag in centimeters.
Aside from the Kelly bag, there is an assortment of other styles that fall under the Kelly family β for instance, theΒ Kelly Wallet, theΒ Kelly Double Tour Bracelet, theΒ Kelly Twilly Bag Charm, theΒ Kelly Danse, and more β all distinguished by their iconic turn-lock.
Kelly Sellier vs. Retourne
When browsing throughΒ our collection of Kelly bags at FASHIONPHILE, you may notice that some have distinctions that set them apart from other Kelly bags. Youβll likely findΒ HSS Kelly bagsΒ as youβre scrolling through. But most often than not, you may notice many Kelly bags are differentiated by eitherΒ SellierΒ orΒ Retourne. These terms refer to the construction of the Kelly bag. Everything else remains the same as far as features go: both have a top handle, both come with a detachable shoulder strap, both have the iconic Kelly turn-lock, and both take hours to make by a single craftsman using some of the finest materials in the world. Read on to learn what Sellier and Retourne mean, and determine which one is right for you!
The Kelly Sellier
Sellier translates to βSaddlerβ in French and the Kelly Sellier was the original, meaning itβs the same bag as the one Grace Kelly carried. The Kelly Sellier shares a lot of similarities to a briefcase β its body is super structured, and youβll notice visible stitching on the outer edges. Due to its sturdier construction, youβll also find that this style is often made of stronger leathers, such asΒ BoxΒ orΒ Epsom, in order to keep the bag in its desired shape over time. Because there are many external features that come into play, the Kelly Sellier is often more expensive than the Kelly Retourne. But that is only because of the required attention to detail; it doesnβt make the Kelly Retourne any less of an investment.
Kelly Sellier bags come in all sizes, and youβll even seeΒ Birkin Sellier styles. The Kelly 20 is a very popular bag, and due to its size, this style only comes in Sellier.
The Kelly Retourne
Retourne means βreversedβ in French, which speaks to the method in which this style is uniquely constructed. For Kelly Retourne bags, the craftsman will start the bag off as a Sellier, but then will turn the bag inside out, giving the bag its unique features such as piping along the edges instead of visible stitching. The body of Kelly Retourne bags are also much softer, or βSoupleβ as some individuals may say. Chevre,Β Togo, andΒ Taurillon ClemenceΒ are often used to construct these more casual and slouchier bags.
Bonus: experts say you can fit more inside a Retourne than a Sellier because the corners ‘give’ a little more.
Just like the Sellier, the Kelly Retourne styles come in all shapes and sizes; however, you wonβt find a Kelly 20 in Retourne. But you can find tons of rare and limited edition pieces in Kelly Retourne,Β like this Matte Niloticus Crocodile Himalaya Kelly Retourne 28 White β itβs truly a collectorβs piece!